[cinghiale]

Planning my first visit to your lovely city in early February, and thank you Montreal eG'ers for terrific posts on this board. Culled from the detailled reviews, my list for dinner choices currently consists of Toque!, Les Caprices, Les Chevres, Anise, Au Pied de Cochon, and, possibly, Cube.

Also, I'm staying in the Plateau Mont-Royal, which the city's website lists as centering on the "hip" Saint-Laurent Street. Now to use, say, an NYC analogy, would that be "hip" as in SoHo (20+ years past its prime), Chelsea (the bloom is still on the rose) or NoLIta (a bit hardscrabble but good bang for the buck)? I've read a number of posts here, but can food and shopping bargains still be had here, or will I, as tourist, just be had?

As for the main query, I'm from Philadelphia, and we get a lot of "where's the best cheesesteak" posts. One might quibble as to the venue, but the cheesesteak is undoubtedly Philly's most well-known specialty. It's a destination dish, like crabcakes or barbecue. Is there a Montrealan (sp?) speciality? From this board, I know to be sure to indulge in foie gras, game (venison ... and others? Boar? Caribou?) and cheese (raw milk), but as standalones, these don't seem to qualify as a signature. I've also read posts about smoked meats and KRT/salt marsh lamb, which certainly could, particularly the latter, depending on preparation.

So, is there some delicacy that I would be remiss in not trying while in your fair city?

[GG Mora]

Poutine: french fries with brown gravy and curd cheese. Greater than the sum of its parts.

[Kenk]

Walk north on St-Laurent St. from Sherbrooke.

Get a spicy salami sandwich from the Hungarian Butcher on the east side of the street. You will see a steam table with assorted meats in the window.
Get a smoked meat sandwich, fries, pickle, black cherry soft drink, at Schwartz's Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen. Walk across the street to The Main for a rib steak with all the trimmings, get some microbrewery beer at the bar next door. Cross the street for a Rotisserie chicken at Coco Rico's. Take the walk to Fairmont Street make a left get some bagel at the Fairmont Bagel Bakery. Continue in the same direction until you hit Park Avenue, make a right. At St-Viateur Street make a right and go into Arahova's and get a souvlaki in a pita, and Greek salad. Cross the street to the St-Viateur bagel bakery and get more bagel. Walk back to your hotel and discuss which bagel you prefer stop to get a poutine. Return to your room and get ready for Diner.

I do not know the best place to get a poutine.

[Marlene]

Montreal also makes some of the best bagels in the world and also Montreal Smoked meat. I was there last year for a few days and had no trouble finding shopping bargains.

We welcome you to Canada, eh!

[WHT]

Marlene, on Jan 7 2004, 01:19 PM, said:

Montreal also makes some of the best bagels in the world and also Montreal Smoked meat. I was there last year for a few days and had no trouble finding shopping bargains.

We welcome you to Canada, eh!

Being from northern NJ originally that was one thing that surprised me when I visited Regina. Unlike Chicago they have some great bagel places. You guys lucked out!

[rmbarr]

As a native Montrealer now living in New York, I think you should be warned that Montreal bagels are different from New York bagels - they're egg bagels, are often a tiny bit sweet, and are a bit chewier and have bigger holes than the New York breed. I love them with butter and a glass of milk, but I prefer New York bagels for sandwiches. But Montrealers who weren't fed New York-style bagels in their youth, as I was by my American-born parents, tend to prefer the Montreal version. This is a source of ongoing disagreement between proponents of the two types, so don't let me prejudice you, and weigh in when you decide!

As for the overall question, Montreal is just generally an excellent place to eat: restaurants as good and probably as plentiful as anywhere in North America, and often less expensive. I second all the suggestions about Montreal bagels, smoked meat sandwiches (a bit like pastrami, but not really; Shwartz's is one of the classic spots), and poutine (which is complete junk food but beloved by all but the lactose intolerant). And about Greek food (there's a big Greek community, mostly still 1st and 2nd generation). Kenk's itinerary sounds pretty good, if you have a stomach about three times the size of mine.

If you're historically minded, there is an older Quebecois cuisine that is basically French but with a lot of regional specialties like game dishes, tourtiere (meat pie) and maple sugar-based food like tarte au sucre (this is a bit like a Southern pecan pie without the pecans). Others in this forum may be able to suggest good venues for that sort of cuisine; some of the places you listed may be aming them.

Also, French food is done better in Montreal than most places in North America, so consider that, if you like classic French food or pastry. (I had a nice French meal last summer at a restaurant called Guy et Dodo.) I would definitely get croissants, for one thing; on average they're much better than, say, in New York (my family used to frequent the Duc de Lorraine, which is a small chain of patisseries, but there may be better places).

And my vague feeling about the Plateau is that it's Chelsea without the huge chain stores, or SoHo 10 years ago with fewer stores (and it will NEVER get like SoHo unless the Montreal economy changes radically). But my information isn't very up to date.

[slbunge]

I suggest taking the metro to Jean-Talon and head straight for Fromagerie Hamel for a fantasting selection of raw milk cheeses (local and imported) that you can't get in the US. Well, not legally, anyway.

I wanted to spend the whole afternoon there but 'settled' for taking several different varieties back to the hotel (along with a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine) and having the best lunch of a marvelous trip.

Edit: grammar

This post has been edited by slbunge: 30 January 2004 - 02:06 PM

[gus_tatory]

cinghiale, on Jan 7 2004, 03:36 PM, said:

Planning my first visit to your lovely city in early February...

i'm assuming it wasn't your choice to visit in early feb?

there's a lot in the archives about this, but people have given you some *excellent* info already. here is, i hope, some more:

--if you're in the plateau, st-laurent is your starting point.
--walk up to st-viateur and take a left to avenue du parc to buy the bagels, as Kenk said.
--go to reservoir (micro-brewery-resto), just east of st-laurent and duluth, for brunch or happy hour (called "5 a 7" here, so it is in fact two hours).
--walk south on st-laurent to de la gauchetiere for chinatown.
--walk north on st-laurent to fairmount, and see/eat @ Soy, Mile End Bar, Thai Grille, the Casa del Popolo, A L'Os, 4 astonishing Indian restos in one block, etc., etc...

as to what kind of "hip" the plateau is, it's just plain fun. i don't know what part of NYC that corresponds to.

edit to add: and oh yeah, dress _warmly_ and bienvenue au Canada/Quebec!

This post has been edited by gus_tatory: 31 January 2004 - 10:38 AM

[KazamaSmokers]

Try cretons at La Binerie.

[docsconz]

For cheese, I would certainly place Chaput in the mix. It is a wonderful cheese shop. Check out this thread and note Carswell's early post.

As far as Montreal bagels, they are delicious but different.I wouldn't approach them with comparison to NY style bagels in mind. They are a different breed - similar evolution, but not quite the same thing. I love both, but for different reasons.

[cinghiale]

Thanks to all for the great input. I arrive Thursday for a long weekend (yes, gus, the choice of mid-winter wasn't mine). Toque! on Friday; Anise on Saturday -- the posts here on those and other restaurants have been really helpful. Sunday seems to be the day that many restaurants are closed, so I'll play it by ear that evening (any suggestions?).

I'll certainly be trying the bagels, smoked meat sandwiches, and poutine. The cheese shops I'd already duly noted from reading every relevant post on this board, including the cheese-smuggling thread dos refers to. Rue St. Laurent sounds intriguing; I've heard a lot of positive reviews from fellow Philadelphians, all of whom rave about your city. Can't wait!

Thanks again.

[riboflavinjoe]

cinghiale, you can get a great poutine at au pied du cochon, on duluth and st. hubert thereabouts. its open on sunday nights. grab a seat at the bar, too. you get to watch the cooks right in front of you. bon appetit!

(EDIT): emphasis on how good the poutine is at Au Pied du Cochon.

This post has been edited by riboflavinjoe: 03 February 2004 - 09:58 AM

[cinghiale]

Most excellent news, joe! APdC was high on my list, but my travelling companion (Dear Old Mom) isn't thrilled by the heavy emphasis on meats (though she's a pro at preparing venison). I duly pointed out the quenelles (mmmm), so maybe she can be persuaded. So, what to have there? Deer tongue, foie gras (poutine?), venison tartare, and all of the duck dishes sound great. Which pig dish is best? God, I can't wait...

[VivreManger]

aPdC also has a good range of fish & sea food, in various forms and for different courses. For instance last summer I had a dish of various fish prepared as if it was all pig meat -- smoked, salted, peppered, terrined, etc.

[rmbarr]

This isn't a "must eat" as such, but here is another suggestion: if you're willing to carry it home, stock up on maple syrup. Just go to the outdoor Bonsecours Market by Hamel, if it isn't too cold, or for that matter to a grocery store, and buy the cans with the cute pictures on them (no chance of breakage as there is with glass; it's probably best to transfer the contents into glass once you broach them, however). Maple syrup is really cheap in Quebec - something like $3-$4 US for a half-liter, last I checked - because the industry is subsidized by the province, and it makes great gifts.

[carswell]

APDC's range of seafood and fish dishes is limited from late fall through late spring, though they ususally have one or two mains in that department. On the other hand, their oysters are excellent this time of year. And their brandade, arguably the best in the city, is available year round as a first or a main.

It would be easy enough to make a meal of their small courses and a dessert. Start with a cromesqui, have some smoked fish or ham or oysters on the half shell, move on to starter portion of brandade, dally over the endive, apple and blue cheese salad and end with a pouding chômeur: I bet you'd fairly waddle out of the joint.

cinghiale, while their online menu is indicative of the kind of food they serve, don't take it as gospel. Don't think I've ever tried or even seen the quenelles, though I once had some delicious deep fried salmon balls.

[cinghiale]

Thanks again, all, but I've been forced to postpone my visit. Seems Mom, currently travelling elsewhere, left her passport at home. In confirming itineraries, I asked in passing whether we'd need passports. A call to the airlines and to the Canadian Embassy confirmed it: either a passport or a birth certificate + photo ID is now required for entry. I originally hale from Michigan, and I've crossed the border at Windsor and at Sault Ste. Marie numerous times without ever any request for ID. I guess 9/11 changed things. So, we're rescheduling for spring, and I'll check back in then.

Thanks so much for all of your invaluable insight.

[gus_tatory]

cinghiale--
sorry to hear about your delayed visit, with re: to administrative details (eck).

on the bright side:
your Mom can use this phrase when in town:
"y'a-t-il qu'elque chose qui contient pas de la viande?"
(is there something that has no meat?)

she won't need to use that at Les Chevres though,
gus

[cinghiale]

OK, I'm rescheduled w/Mom for 7/24-28. I was planning on re-reserving tables where I'd planned to eat in February. However, reviewing the past 4 months of postings, I've found there have been some developments:

(1) Toque! OK, so it's moved. But what's the verdict? Lesley said on 2/9, re: toque moving

Quote

I was at Toque! last week for lunch. The food is as solid and interesting as ever. ... I will withhold comment on the decor until I have the chance to see it at night.

Everything in the 4/9 thread re: Toque... was pre-move, other than Lesley, who said

Quote

I reviewed the restaurant for the Montreal Gazette a few weeks ago (dropping them half a star in the process).
Here's the link:
http://www.canada.co...9E-9FA52DEC7EC5

However, the link is dead. So, is it still "world-class, very much in the spirit of French Laundry or Gordon Ramsay or Vancouver's Lumiere. Great food, attentive service, absolutely nothing out of place"? (Anise or Toque? 12/2003)

(2) Hadn't noticed anything about La Chronique or La Bastide in February, so I read with interest this post. Is La Bastide BYO? I'm not interested in BYO'ing, so Brunoise is out. I was already planning on doing Anise on Saturday, 7/24. Anyone with more info on Chronique?

(3) Out stay includes a Sunday and a Monday, both tough resto days in Montreal, I understand. APdC is open Sundays, right? If Mom objects to the meat-centric direction of the restaurant, any other suggestions for Sunday? How about Les Caprices? I can't find anything on their website listing any hours.

(4) I'm not anti-veggie, just omnivorous. Am I doing myself a disservice by not considering Les Chevres?

As I said, other than Anise, I'm wide open to your excellent recommendations -- in the category I've loosely defined above.

Thanks,
cinghiale w/passport

edited for misspelling of Lesley's name

This post has been edited by cinghiale: 03 June 2004 - 12:30 PM

[carswell]

2. La Bastide is not BYO. Neither is Brunoise, for that matter. What are you looking for in terms of additional info on La Chonique? (You have their URL, right?)

3. Les Caprices is open seven days a week. Other restos that come to mind are Au Petit Extra, L'Express, Les Chèvres, Chez L'Épicier, Milos...

4. Yes.

[cinghiale]

Misread the BYO status of Brunoise. Thanks.

I don't have the url for La Chronique. I googled and couldn't find a link to the restaurant directly. Could you post it? Thanks.

Thanks for the info on Les Caprices and your other suggestions.

Still: anyone been to the new Toque! for dinner. Lesley...?

[carswell]

La Chronique's website

[Fay Jai]

2 Questions...I read (and have kept) an old, old article from GQ Magazine where Alan Richman did a tour of restos in Montreal...I would have to dig out the issue from my garage, but I remember 2 things, a local wine called Pis Dru and a restaurant called Beauty's...Apparently "Beauty's Famous Mish Mash" was the epitome of greasy breakfast food...Are these still around?

Thanks!

[carswell]

Pisse Dru is a run-of-the-mill Beaujolais that was extremely popular here back in the '70s. Dubouef has since steamrollered it into near oblivion.

Beauty's is an institution and still very much with us. The mishmash is eggs scrambled with hot dog and salami chunks (all beef, I'm sure), green pepper and fried onions — nothing you can't recreate at home, in other words. Check out the Beauty's Luncheonette website.

This post has been edited by carswell: 04 June 2004 - 10:00 AM

[gus_tatory]

cinghiale, on Jun 4 2004, 11:40 AM, said:

Still: anyone been to the new Toque! for dinner. Lesley...?

i haven't been to Toque and i'm not Lesley , but i remember from her review she said the food hadn't changed so much, but it was the feel of the space that had completely changed. the new space is very stone/wood/metal, sparse, and austere from what i understand.

...and go to au pied du cochon--i'm not sure if they still have the venison tartare. if so, order it. they have a few veggie options for your Mom, like something called "cromesquis", which from the looks of it is mashed potatoes with a *ton* of fresh cheese curds whipped in. mmm...

and do as Riboflavin Joe suggested: book 2 seats at the bar overlooking the open kitchen--it's the greatest dinner theatre.

sorry if this sounds bossy--enjoy your trip!

[carswell]

gus_tatory, on Jun 4 2004, 02:04 PM, said:

...and go to au pied du cochon--i'm not sure if they still have the venison tartare. if so, order it. they have a few veggie options for your Mom, like something called "cromesquis", which from the looks of it is mashed potatoes with a *ton* of fresh cheese curds whipped in. mmm...

Cromesquis are Foie gras McNuggets (for want of a better term), i.e. vegetarians' nightmares. Have had mashed potatoes with cheese curds as a memorable side dish at APDC but don't recall seeing them as a separate menu item. Maybe you're thinking of brandade, the delicious purée of salt cod, potatoes and garlic? On the whole, I wouldn't consider APDC a vegetarian-friendly place, though it is possible to hobble together a meat-free meal (e.g. tomato tart; apple, endive and Roquefort salad; frites; dessert). But if Mom is willing to eat fish... well, come on down!

Edit: On second thought, scratch the frites. They're probably fried in tallow.

This post has been edited by carswell: 04 June 2004 - 11:23 AM

[Lesley C]

Yes I did say Toque! has changed more ambiance-wise than food-wise, but the food didn't thrill my socks off either. I went three times before I reviewed it and I wouldn't run back there for a while. What I would try out is La Chronique. Their June tasting menu looks delicious and I just stood next to the sous-chef buying some fabulous looking cheese at Yannick.

[cinghiale]

Thanks, all. And thanks, carswell, for the La Chronique website. At Lesley's medicore reco on Toque!, looks like it'll be dinner at La Chronique on Tuesday (nice name, reminds me of Snoop's "The Chronic", a message I could never in good conscience condone ).

Mom eats meat and fish, etc. She sounded a little uncertain about APdC; but she's following this thread, so I hope she'll go for it.

I'm off to Germany today to check out my old stomping grounds in Hamburg and Berlin. N. Germany has certainly improved, culinarily. Three weeks after my return, it's on to your fair city. Should make for interesting comparisons.

[gus_tatory]

cinghiale--bon voyage and be sure to let us know how the end results, i.e., your trip here, goes.
i am frankly very glad that circumstances moved your trip from mid-winter to now. today is 23 celsius and sunny--glorious!

PS: i *think* you're going to be here during the boulevard St-Laurent Street Festival (17-20 june) and/or Fringe Theatre Festival. you and Mom are going to have an excellent time!
details at St-Laurent street fest and Montreal fringe theatre festival.

PS: carswell: thanks for the correction on the "cromesquis" thing--so what is that puree of potatoes and curd cheese called? you are an amazing resource; thanks.
gus

[carswell]

gus_tatory, on Jun 5 2004, 01:02 PM, said:

so what is that puree of potatoes and curd cheese called?

My bad: it is a separate menu item. Pommes de terre Au pied de cochon. Made with cheese curds and roasted garlic. Have tried it once, served as a side — well, actually, an under — to various pork products (sauasage, meaty bacon, a chunk of loin, etc.; some sauerkraut may have been in there, too). Great rib-sticking stuff.